Jorge Fuentes Monzonĺs-Vilallonga, Ambassador, Head of Mission, OSCE Croatia
Five Stars Zagreb Issue 16 — June 01, 2006.

I would like to convey to you in these few lines how a diplomat accredited in Zagreb might spend his weekend. Logically I choose weekend, because on work days - believe it or not – diplomats do work and we do it in a much more prosaic manner than commonly imagined, with many hours spent in office, a lot of document reading, an infinite number of telephone calls, meetings, report dictations and, what is more, the necessity of attending receptions, cocktails and dinners in the evening, when the fatigue of a very long day compels us towards the tranquillity of our home, soft relaxing music and peaceful conversation with our spouse.

But – voila! – on Saturday and Sunday, if, with a little luck, an official visit or other State commitments do not arise, the weekend is ours. What can one do in Croatia? Those preferring a change of place travel to some of the formidable tourist destinations on the coast or in the interior to practice some healthy sports or discover new corners. Others among us prefer to remain in Zagreb, the city that we have intuitively grasped to be wonderful while passing through it at full speed on our way to the office during the week, with a wish to explore it more deeply. I would recommend residing on the hills to anyone who can afford to do so, to reflect among the side streets of the old city and to go shopping around the central Ban Jelacic Square. I will be more specific.

At the end of the week it is necessary to get up early. It is the time of leisure and sleeping through it is out of question. Ever since I was a youth, I would always get up earlier on weekends than on work days: diversion is beckoning us and we certainly do not want to be late for the appointment.

Why not begin with an early hike up Medvednica Mountain towards Medvedgrad Castle or the TV tower? It would be a stimulating stroll and, in addition, we would be able to socialize with numerous Zagreb hikers who keep in shape till old age with these pleasant weekly promenades.

After a shower, I suggest a breakfast in some of the city’s great hotels. I am reluctant about naming names, but in the Esplanade, Westin, Sheraton or Dubrovnik one would be provided with extraordinary care.

Once replenished, it is time to wander about the environs of St. Mark’s Square, to visit the Mestrovic Gallery or the Museum of Naïve Art, and it is time to review how the beautiful mansions of this area, somewhat dilapidated due to the passage of time, are being repaired. Being an amateur painter, sketching helps me to work on canvas later in the tranquillity of my home. This walk can be extended to the environs of the Cathedral where there is the attractive central open market and shops in the surroundings, with the classic Cahun Hat Store standing out among them. In Ilica you will find the best shoes, ice-cream, bread and the best antiques in the country. The shortest funicular in the world will take you in seconds to the old city again, where a veteran guitarist will receive you – as he usually does with me - with music of Antón Karas and his "Third Man".

A snack or refreshment during the stroll through the upper city in one of its numerous cafés will allow for a rather delayed lunch, at which point we find ourselves before "l´ambarras du choix" where one’s decision depends on personal culinary preferences. If you want good meat, there is no doubt, ManO Restaurant next to the Glyptotheque is the place where you can cook yourself the best meat of Croatia in the preferred manner over a small grill. If you are looking for a refined and calm atmosphere, a serene conversation and a cuisine with style and design, then the place, of course, is Marcellino. But if you want to taste the best fish of the Mediterranean, you will have to stroll in the direction of Gallo or Baltazar.

My special recommendation: the Grilled Scampi Plate.There is still time to keep abreast of the latest cultural events during the weekend. The opera season at the National Theatre, a good concert at the Lisinski Concert Hall or a good film in the modern theatres of Broadway or Cinestar, almost completes our weekend leisure. But we have to keep no less than one hour, 60 minutes, without which I would consider my Saturday and Sunday incomplete: every Sunday at dusk I unavoidably visit some of the wonderful Catholic churches of the city and its environs. A withdrawal into St. Mark’s or St. Catherine’s church is inevitable before returning home and trying to calm the emotions from so many impressions we have accumulated in 48 hours. Of course it is necessary to avoid dinner. Instead, I suggest a couple of hours’ reading in the tranquillity of home and family. Good night.